![]() |
APRIL STORY EXCERPT |
||||
|
|
|
|
Daily Fare: Glenelg, Australia Out
of Town, by Michael Troy
Roodle-ooh, roodle-ooh! The melodious chortling of myriad
black-and-white magpies wakens us here each morning in Glenelg, South
Australia. Laura and I have been here among all the birds and flowers in
this beach suburb of Adelaide since mid-September. We didn't invent this
nonsense word - it was a Christmas gift from Ish Kabibble. It happened
like this: In December Laura and I were in the Glenelg public library, a
favorite haunt. Since our lovely garden apartment is fully furnished
with a VCR and two TVs, we were looking through the old movies. Wonder
of wonders, we discovered Round the World, a 1943 wartime production
with bandleader Kay Kyser. Although this morale-building movie was made
in California on a sound lot, it portrays Kay and his band of G.I.
musicians supposedly whooping it up on leave in Australia. Now, Kay
hails from Rocky Mount, North Carolina, just 70 miles from Durham. He
married his statuesque blonde chanteuse Georgia Carroll, who also
starred in this movie. Kay died quite a while back, but Georgia has
lived on East Franklin Street in Chapel Hill for donkey's years. Ish
Kabibble was Kay's trombone player and deadpan comedic counterfoil
extraordinaire. He was my boyhood idol before he was later supplanted by
Jerry Lewis. I had never seen this movie before, but because of its
Australian theme it had survived and was still sitting on the library
shelf. In it, Kay and Ish repeatedly used this hepcat nonsense word,
"Roodle-ooh." Upon hearing them pronounce the word the first time,
Laura, the tone-perfect musician, laughed and said, "That's what the
magpies say!"
Five years ago, on our first trip to New Zealand and Australia, Laura
and I discovered Adelaide and Glenelg. We were so taken with it we spent
seven weeks here and still wanted more Since that time we have often
spoken about and longed for this gentle place. Back home in America,
where Laura developed Chronic Fatigue, we devoted four years to a
fulltime search for medical assistance, trying anything that seemed to
offer a possible answer. There were so many "experts," so many books, so
many websites - the search was all-consuming, but we could never find
the help we needed. In the end, we remembered Australia. We returned
last June.
With approximately the same land mass as the Lower 48 States, Australia
has a population of about 20 million. The only large population centers,
Sydney and Melbourne, are on the southeast coast and comprise close to
half of the national population. Adelaide, with slightly over a million
people, is the only city of any size in South Australia. Its residents
describe it with pride as "a large country town." It was founded later
than the eastern cities, entirely populated by settlers who chose to
emigrate from England. There were no penal colonies in South Australia.
Its growth was greatly assisted by the copper deposits discovered about
1840; thus it got a prosperity boost but was spared the boomtown
excesses of the gold rushes in eastern Australia. Adelaide's beach
communities stretch for 20 miles along the Gulf of St. Vincent, a large
bay of the Southern Ocean. Glenelg, the approximate mid-point, is about
five miles from the city center.
We returned to Adelaide in mid-September, after spending June through
August (Down Under winter) in Townsville on the tropical northeast coast
of Queensland. Here, our two-bedroom garden townhouse is about a mile
south of Glenelg's business district and a few short blocks from the
beach. San Francisco-style antique electric trams run from Glenelg to
the Adelaide city center. Public transport connects all of the greater
Adelaide area, so we live wonderfully well using our bikes, feet, buses,
trains, and trams. Many retired people elect to live as we do, without
ever driving an automobile.
To
read of this story, please pickup a copy of the Urban Hiker at
any of these places.
Durham native Michael Troy may be best known for founding He's Not Here in
Chapel Hill. An earlier report from Australia appeared in the August Urban
Hiker.
| |
|
|
|
|
Home | Current Issue | Pick Up A Copy | Send A Story | Advertisers Write Us Published monthly at 1207 N. Gregson Street, Durham, NC 27701 © 2001 by the Urban Hiker®. All rights reserved.
|